Whilst researching advice for grooms on what to wear I noticed a little trend. Nothing to get the pitchforks out for, but a potentially outdated tendency: advice for gents, especially with regards to fashion, is directed at the bride-to-be. So, I’m going to go very slightly against the grain and write this direct to you – the groom. After all, if you weren’t there it wouldn’t be much of a wedding, would it?
So here goes, everything you need to wear the perfect suit.
Bear in mind the type of wedding you’re having. So if your wife-to-be is set on a beach wedding in Hawaii you’re not going to be wearing a tweed three-piece. Match to the style decisions of the wedding thus far to the best of your ability, so if you’re marrying in a church, go traditional. In a barn? Go modern.
The most expensive suit you could find will look rubbish if it doesn’t fit. Equally, if you find the best fitting outfit in the world in a charity shop, it’ll probably look good. More than likely, you’ll be getting your suit tailored to fit, however the below info is good to know just in case.
Poor fitting jackets are the worst. Too big and you look like you’ve borrowed your dad’s, too small and you look like a wrestler from the gimmick era. The best fitting jackets follow these rules:
You should be able to fit your fist into your jacket in between the fabric and your chest. If you can fit any more in there it’s too big, if you can’t fit it in it’s too small.
Your sleeves should reveal ¼ to ½ an inch of shirt at the wrists.
At your collar (back of your neck), it seems obvious, but the fabric shouldn’t bunch up or off from the collar of your shirt. It should rest across the bottom of your neck.
The seam at your shoulder should fall directly on top of said shoulder, no sneaking down the arm.
The trail of your suit should sit midway down your bum, just as your cheeks start to curve towards the back of your legs. Let your arms hang by your sides. If the hem of your jacket hits the middle of your palm, then the suit fits. And if the suit fits, wear it!
Buttons. Buttons, buttons, buttons. There’s an easy rule for which of them you have done up and when – “Sometimes, always, never.” If you have three buttons this rule goes from top down – so have your top button done up sometimes, your middle button done up always and leave the bottom button, it’s just for show.
Next up, trousers. There’s less to think of than for jackets – however it’s still important to get it right:
On the back end, your trousers should drape to the shape of your bum. Not bunched in or saddlebag style – makes sense really...
Your trousers should break (the little divot made when the hem of your trousers hit your shoe) very slightly – the hem should touch the top of your shoes, brush it almost, but nothing else. The back of the leg can hang a little lower around the back of the shoe.
That’s it really in terms of trousers – they’re a lot easier to judge when it comes to how they fit than those pesky jackets.
Style and Colour
Obviously, if you’ve been given a theme by your bride-to-be; stick to it. That’s the part that isn’t rocket science. Ever worn a tux on the beach? It’s not particularly fun... In saying that, you need to do what’s comfortable for you. If you like waistcoats, wear one! If you like kilts, go for it! The following are merely suggestions:
Really, style is your choice. If you want a two-piece, go for it. In terms of personal opinion – I’m plumping for a double breasted three piece for pretty much any kind of wedding. Again, use your common sense – don’t wear this to the beach!
With regards to shoes, you’ve got two options: Black or brown. Black shoes go with black, grey (light and dark) and blue suits, whilst brown shoes work with brown, light grey and blue suits.
Accessories – match the colour of your shoes to the colour of your belt. Simple.
More accessories – use your tie and, potentially, your pocket square, to stand out, not fit in. Teal colour scheme? Go maroon. Your tie/square should match in terms of colour, but not in style or fabric.
And even more accessories – cufflinks are another great way to add a bit of class and/or a personal touch. That being said, be strict.
Don’t wear a perceivably childish cufflink with a sophisticated tie and vice versa. Also, try to match with at least one of the colours on the rest of your outfit – be that your pocket square, your belt buckle or your socks.
For neckwear, there are a few options. A bow-tie, a regular tie or a cravat is probably the best choice. Again, refer to the above point about departing from any colour scheme in order to stand out – and follow this rule for style as well. Groomsmen in cravats? Wear a bow-tie or regular.
And that’s it! Follow the above rules and you’re well on the way to being the best dressed man in the room. Which you should be. If you’ve got any questions, feel free to ask away in the comments section below.